This is our company demo car that we have been building for a few years now, making upgrades all the time to it.

1983 Buick Regal, all chrome removed and painted to match the new stock color paint, Grand National hood and deck lid spoiler. Both front and rear bumpers have been shaved. Lowered with Belltech dropped spindles in the front and coils in the rear. 16×8 Center Line Style 89 wheels.

1959 Chevy Impala dash heavily modified, 1966 Chevy Chevelle console, English Wool custom fit carpet, custom fabricated door panels, trim panels, headliner and every other piece of trim in the car. Dakota Digital Gauges.

Custom built bucket seats with custom Buick emblems.

Hand fabricated fiberglass trunk panels. ARC Audio ARC12″ subwoofers, ARC Audio FD1200.1 Mono Block, ARC Audio FD4150 4 channel amp. The whole car is wired with Hooker Audio wiring. Dakota Digital amp temperature and volt meters.

Custom bend white 10mm Neon lighting.

Chip Foose signed ARC Audio Foose series 4 Channel amplifier.

We built a complete custom front end for this Ferrari. We used about $7000US worth or European Hella lights and accessories. We replaced all the factory lighting on the front end of the car.

This is a custom air ride system we installed along with a Baer Brake front and rear disc upgrade kit, Bilstein shocks, 19″ Asanti wheels and a Dakota Digital air ride controller

We finished this job a while pack, thought we would post it up for you to see.

New gauge install

We just finished up this crazy system in a 26 foot Pontoon party barge. We installed 8 pairs of ARC Audio FD6000 components, 4 AVI SLS300 subs, 2 ARC Audio Foose 4150 4 channels and 2 ARC Audio Foose 1200.1 mono blocks.

We build two home theater style down firing enclosures for under each of the boats coolers.

We used two AVI SLS-300 woofers in each box, the small opening beside the terminal cup is a conduit for the drain tube of the cooler above the box to properly run through and out the floor of the boat.

8 Pairs of Arc Audio FD6000 components make this boat scream. The use of multiple Federal Signal FireRay stobes make this boat the ultimate party barge. These lights are commonly found on EMS trucks etc, so they are bright !

All the panels were made from treated marine plywood, then the speaker plates were molded to project the sound upwards and opposite from one another to eliminate any chance of phasing issues in such small quarters.

And yes……….for those that noticed, that is a full fledged brass stripper pole !!

Custom welded and powder coated steel amp rack for easy access and wiring off all the major components.

This purple rotating beacon is tied into a dimmer module and air horns, it’s a “Shot Caller”. When the horns and light go off, it’s time to take another drink !

Drunk proofing the system as best as you can.

Click here for a short video clip of the boat in action !

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We finally got the door panels finished for the Camaro.

This is what we started with when we got the car.

This is the new ABS door panel base. This is what we will build off of.

We needed to build some tweeter grilles for the tweeters in the door. I actually took the arm rest and traced it out on paper, I then downsized it to the size I wanted, while keeping the general look of the arm rest. I then made a plug out of 3/4″ mdf from which I did a combination of rabbeting and flush cut to get my template. I then transfered that over to ABS, used a round over on it and then inset studs to mount the grille to the panel. Once we had the grille trim all smoothed out I textured it and gave it a couple of coats of satin black and low luster clear to protect it. THEN, I took my template again and made another piece that will be mounted to the door panel. This will give the grille a “molded up” look to it, basically it will raise the tweeter grille up and make it look like it kinda grew out of the panel.

This shows the “riser” for the tweeter grille.

We also made a riser piece for the two edges of the top sections.

We then took 1/8″ landau foam and covered the three top sections, sanded the foam and we are all ready to go.

Then we wrapped each section separately.

We then started gluing each section to the door panel.

A bit of a closeup showing the rises between the sections.

Finished product. (I hate photographing black, never shows the color right……)

We made a bunch of progress on the Camaro this weekend.

When the car came in, the air ride tank, the solenoids and the compressors were all mounted to the floor with drywall screws. We welded up a frame work for the compressors and solenoids out of 1/2″ square tubing. We welded flat bar to the rack and then drilled and tapped them to mount everything to it. We bolted the tank to the floor and then the rack was bolted to the mounting tabs of the tank.

We then sprayed the rack with an epoxy coating from Eastwood, it’s “Satin Black Chassis Paint”

Next up was the amp rack. The car has some issues with the trunk sealing properly sometimes so we wanted to make sure that should water get into the trunk there was nothing there that would be damaged by water. Traditionally we would make the amp rack out of MDF but if water gets into the trunk, it won’t last very long. We took some more 1/2″ square tubing and welded up the amp rack and welded flat bar to mount the amps to it just like the air ride rack.

We then welded the top section of the rack and welded mounting tabs to it so it can be secured into the truk. Like the air ride rack, we sprayed it with the Eastwood Chassis Epoxy Paint.

The amp rack is bolted to the floor of the trunk using thread inserts and stainless bolts/washers.

We relocated the battery to the trunk. Using thread inserts we mounted the rack to the floor of the car. We then welded up a simple bracket that we mounted the Streetwires combo fuse block to, we then drilled and tapped the side of the battery rack to mount the combo block bracket.

Like all the other racks in the trunk, we coated them with the Eastwood Epoxy Chassis Paint. We mounted the heavy duty relays for the compressors out of the way behind the hinges. We also mounted the main ANL fuse for the cars electrical system for easy access.

We also started framing the subwoofer box between the rear seats. It will be housing two 8″ woofers that will be firing against the back seat sheet metal and will be ported out the bottom/front of the console/enclosure.

One of our good customers wanted to update the front of his Navi, we searched high and low and the only things we could find was your typical billet grille but no lower. E&G makes a mesh grille, but it looks like a chicken coupe and they don’t have a lower either and the STRUT package in Canada is WAY overpriced. We found a mesh grille that had really fine mesh from Putco that is part of their “Liquid Mesh Grille” line, but again they didn’t make a lower. Everyone has a lower up to 2003, but nothing for the newer one. We got the Putco grille ordered in only to find out that it is meant to go over the stock plastic section, there was no way in HELL that was going to happen, so we cut up the stock grille and fabricated our own mounts so that it fit flush with the plastic part of the grille. We then order a grille from a 2004-2006 Ford F-150 since it had the largest piece of mesh in it and decided to make our own.

We made a template out of cardboard of what we wanted the lower grille to look like and got it fitting perfect. We then transferred the template to 1/4″ MDF (so it would still bend) and got that to fit perfect in the opening. Finally we took a piece of 3/8″ aluminum and adhered the MDF template to the aluminum plate. We then fired up the router and the lube and 2 hours later we had a new grille surround. Once we had the piece made, we rabbeted a 1/4″ groove on the back for the mesh to recess into from the back. Once we had the grille made, we then begin the painful task of slowly and carefully bending the grill to match the curve of the bumper. Using body parts (chest and legs) and tables as bending tools we got the grille bent perfectly Billy Lane style.We fabricated a half dozen mounting tabs and adhered them to the grille. Using thread inserts into the lip of the bumper we test fitted everything into plate. Starting with 120grit sandpaper and going up to 2000 we slowly worked our way up to a dull polish. Several rubbing compounds and polishes later we had a pretty cool looking grille. We then cut the F150 grille apart and mounted the mesh into our new grille.

We got the Modo Innovations Electric Trunk Release kit installed (see our review of this product)

Got the stereo rack wired and mounted. As we always do, we used molex plugs on the power wires for easy servicing.

We were slammed the last week with a bunch of other projects at the shop so we didn’t get a ton done on the car but here is the progress.

Got the console almost finished, just have to modify the mounts for the console then Flock the storage compartment in it.

We got the wiring in the trunk all completed. We had to replace all the sockets, housings and everything in between.

We had to install a pin switch for the trunk but we didn’t want anything visible to detract away from the clean look we are going after. We took a small “micro” switch and built a ABS mounting plate for it so that when the trunk hinge is closed all the way it makes contact, if the trunk opens as little as 1/8″ it will trigger the alarm.

We also started to layup the fiberglass for the subwoofer enclosure/console for between the rear bucket seats.

A complete custom C6. We did the Lingenfelter hood as well as molding the Lingenfelter air dam to the bumper.

We had these custom emblems made for the car.

The stock BMW door panel with the stock 5 1/4″ door speaker.

The new custom door panel houses a Morel Elate 9″ Subwoofer.

Custom a-pillars house a Morel CDM-88 midrange and a Morel Supremo tweeter.

We completed this project a little while ago, thought we would share it with our readers.

The start of the custom a-pillars. We created a small recessed area for a decorative trim we created to add some more detail to the a-pillar

We routered some custom rings out of 3/8″ aluminum, it took over 30 hours to create them.

We created MDF inserts for the rings.

Here you can see the finished tweeter ring with it’s insert, the custom made woodgrain insert and the stitching on the a-pillar.

We made a custom mount for the radio then had it as well as all the OEM burlwood redone.

A shot with all the OEM woodgrain panels redone in a Silver Burlwood. The process is done by a water transfer process.

We are having some custom LS2 emblems for thee Camaro, here is the initial raw aluminum emblem base. There will be a black insert set into the chrome aluminum and it will be raised about 1/16″ higher then the aluminum.

We are doing a basic, well not so basic but a basic system in the Camaro. The source side of the system consists of the Sony CDX-F50 Marine deck, a 10 disc changer, iPod module and the Sony Marine controller. Everything but the iPod and the controller will be mounted in the trunk. We will be also using Morel speakers and Zapco amplifiers in it. The only undetermined product will be which subwoofers to use. We were going to use the Focal 5″ (4) because of the space between the rear seats but not that we modded the shit out of the seat we actually gain about another 4 inches in the center, so we might squeeze a single 10″ or 2 8″ in there. It has to be loud (convertible) and play all kinds of music.

Anyways, here is the trunk rack we welded up to hold the deck, changer, multichanger module and have a place to strap up the excess cables.

The car also had a GTO console in it……………..I can’t even really describe what the guy did to it………….anyways, it had to be fixed.

Before (yes, that is carpet wrapped around the front, and yes it looked like he trimmed it with a sawzall…………….

The console didn’t fit right, it was to wide, it was digging into the seats and damaging the leather. We took the console and cut 1.5″ out of the center of the entire console.

We then used pieces of ABS and riveted the whole thing back together, we then molded everything together. (see how the top trim curves up to where the dash would be in a GTO)

We then added to the front of the console to round it off and modified the trim panel to flow with the new front instead of “up” like it did.

We removed the power window switches from the doors and rear panels and placed them in the console.

With it almost finished we wanted to get some pictures of it. The two small holes are for the door pop switches. The large hole is for the Sony marine controller. The client really liked the silver accent that came on the console to begin with, so we kept it. We still have to clear coat the console and flock the storage compartment but it’s almost done.

The car came in with 2006 GTO leather seats (as well as many other GTO parts). The person that installed them used some back straps and some drywall anchors to hold them in. The seats had this large “hoop” section on top that the head rests sunk into. This “hoop” actually stopped the top from folding down properly. We took the seat apart and removed the “hoop” and redid the leather on the seat. We also modified the entire metal frame so that we could mount the solidly. We also removed the center section to allow for the future home of the subwoofers. By modifying the metal frame we got the seats lower, back and created more of a gap for the future woofers.

Before

After

When the car arrived, the rear side panels were really hurting…….they were made up of 3 seperate secured with several visible chrome screws.

Before

Doing some panel repair as we join all three panels together and then adding the speaker mount.

We then covered it with fleece and fiberglassed it, did some sanding, filling and shaping. We want to do something else on it so that it isn’t just a big molded vinyl panel. We will probably add some billet inserts or something to match the theme of the car.

The building of the custom door panels.

Before

After (well the beginning of them)

We completed the rear panels and the trunk in the 35 Ford Coupe

For more on this project please check it out here